Most evenings Ted can be found at O'Connor's Pub, "singing a few tunes with the boys." I wish we'd gotten a recording of Ted performing -- he's got a terrific baritone voice and sings with both gusto and tenderness.
Our main reason for visiting Doolin was to hear the traditional music sessions it's become known for around the world. The town's three pubs have become sort of a mecca for musicians from Europe thanks to local musicians who've made it big over the years. In the photos below, I believe that only Ted and his two white-haired friends were locals -- all of the others had made a beeline there from France and Germany in order to show off their Irish musical chops for the crowd. There was much jockeying for positions, which made me glad I'd decided to leave my own wooden flute and tin whistles packed in my suitcase. I definitely could not have kept up!
Another night we visited our second Doolin pub, McDermott's. We enjoyed not being quite so tightly packed in with other listeners. Each pub has its own personality, unique decor and dedicated regulars. And in case you've always wondered what a pub really is, Rick Steves writes:
Pubs are a basic part of the Irish social scene, and, whether you're a teetotaler or a beer-guzzler, they should be a part of your travel here. "Pub" is short for "public house." It's an extended living room where, if you don't mind the stickiness, you can feel the pulse of Ireland. Smart travelers use pubs to eat, drink, get out of the rain, watch the latest sporting event, and make new friends. Pub grub gets better every year -- it's Ireland's best eating value. You're a guest on your first night; after that, you're a regular.
Do you see the little guy enjoying his visit? During one song he started the whole room clapping, and another tune set his toes tapping.
These were the local musicians whose music he was enjoying. They were missing their third band member, a woman who plays whistle and sings. Dang. That would have been fun to hear!
Curtis and I loved the pub scene. Maggie and Tyler mostly enjoyed it. An hour was about as much as Maggie could take at one sitting, and Tyler was not quite as keen on Irish whiskey as he'd imagined he might be, but people-watching and table-hopping to get closer to the musicians were worthy consolations.
Curtis took his mp3 recorder to most of the sessions, although I can't figure out to share any of those files here. I'll keep working on it, and in the meantime here's a really dark, grainy snippet shot by our travel videographer (Tyler) at Doolin's third pub, McGann's.
We will drink this drink as Patrick would drink it,
full of grace and spilling over,
without fighting or quarrelling or hint of shame,
or knowing that we will last until tomorrow.
We ask the help of our Mother Mary,
for she is support at all times.
This is our toast to all here present,
and may the Son of Grace be helping us.
Irish drinking a health blessing
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